The New Version Of The Classic Chronograph ‘a386’ Is Now Available!

For the traditional watchmaking industry, the era when quartz movements were prevalent had a strong impact on many mechanical watchmakers, and as the saying goes, a hero is born in a time of turmoil. Swiss watchmaking brand Zenith (ZENITH) factory in 1975 was forced to switch to the production of quartz watches, all the information about mechanical movements and other information needs to be destroyed, watchmaker Mr Charles Vilmer will be part of the information secretly hidden in the workshop on the top floor of the attic until 1984 to be able to re-emerge, and hidden in the ‘attic’ in the ‘secrets’. The ‘secrets’ hidden in the ‘attic’ also played a very big role in the redevelopment of the traditional watchmaking industry, and some of Zenith’s historical classics can only be reproduced today because of the design drawings in the attic, and the A386 that we see today is one of them. The A386 is one of them. Not long ago, a new version of this much-anticipated chronograph masterpiece was released, but what are the details of the new version?

The A386 was one of the models that gave birth to the Zenith automatic chronograph after the introduction of the famous El Primero automatic chronograph movement in 1969, which was very popular thanks to its excellent three-colour counters and sleek design. Today, Zenith has developed its CHRONOMASTER Signature Original A386 into a revival of a classic collection for the general public, and has presented a number of classic designs in outstanding shapes. The A386 is now available again in a new version.

The CHRONOMASTER Signature Original revival model continues the classic rounded appearance of the A386, with its bezel-less design, simple and clear three-colour counters, tachymeter bezel included, and the overall shape of the watch reproduces the classic elements of history.

However, in terms of the colour scheme, this new creation adopts a new, more classic black to create the disc, with a low-key and cool style. In fact, black and white colour scheme is not uncommon in the watch circle, but most of them are more monotonous due to the colour tone, while Zenith’s A386 black and white disc reveals a stylish, atmospheric and modern aesthetic with a more conspicuous contrast in tone. On the large matte black disc, only the chronograph scale circle has a white design for better readability; with the brand’s unique three-colour chronograph disc, it is not only highly recognizable, but also more historical, and the red chronograph hand is like the finishing touch, injecting a touch of vivid power into the whole disc.

Upon closer inspection, we can see that the three coloured counters overlap each other, and unlike the matte finish of the dials, the three-coloured counters are decorated with a spiral pattern, which is polished to a light sheen. The 60-second counter at 3 o’clock, the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, and the 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock are all equipped with a high-frequency calibre, with a red centre hand that rotates once every 10 seconds, making it possible to keep time down to 1/10th of a second.

In terms of size, the A386 is refined, elegant and chic, and the revival model of the CHRONOMASTER Signature Original remains the classic size of 38 mm, which is an advantage in a market where chronographs are becoming more and more ‘generous’, and which is suitable for all occasions, for shirts or suit cuffs. It can be worn on all occasions, without snagging at the cuffs of a shirt or a suit, and it is small enough to be worn on a daily basis.

Despite its small size, the bezel-less design also provides more space on the dial for reading and timing.

The watch is fitted with a redesigned steel bracelet with solid links instead of the skeletonised bracelet of the 1969 model, which is no longer ‘light and flimsy’, as watch enthusiasts have said, and the new links bring a certain sense of weight to the watch. The bracelet is also finely polished, with satin-brushed sides and a polished centre section.

The bottom of the watch is backed, and underneath the sapphire glass caseback, the in-house El Primero 3600 calibre is running at high speed. This chronograph calibre has a high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz) and, as mentioned earlier, a 1/10th of a second chronograph function, which, thanks to a unique algorithm, allows the hand to rotate once every 10 seconds (as opposed to once every 60 seconds in a conventional chronograph). While fully optimising the El Primero chronograph movement, it retains the main features of its predecessor: a chronograph function accurate to one-tenth of a second and an integrated structure comprising a horizontal clutch, a column wheel and ball bearings, in addition to a stop-seconds mechanism, which provides a remarkable performance and a power reserve of 60 hours at full winding.

In conclusion: the new model of the A386, the revival of the CHRONOMASTER Signature Original, is once again available in a wide range of colours, with a black and white dial design and a historical tricolour chronograph counters for a more ornamental look, and the El Primero 3600 calibre for a unique experience of the chronograph function.